QUEBRADAS, LLAMAS AND CACTUS...
(Trip to North-West Argentina - June 23/July 8, 2001)
The time is around 3 am - maybe 4... Should I keep the mouth inside or outside the sleeping bag ? If outside, I breathe better, but, if I leave the mouth inside, I warm up the inside of the bag... A look at the thermometer : -8°C (18°F) in the tent... the sleeping bag is covered with frost... yet I absolutely have to get up... a pressing need... Cheer up ! The view is worth the trouble. The full moon lights up the "puna" (altiplano) as in full daylight... |
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We are (absolutely alone) in the "camping Gran Hotel Panorama", close to the Pozuelos lagoon (altitude : 3800 m = 12500 feet). -16°C (0°F) outside, at 8 am... The warden is away : he has "entrusted us" with his chicken and cat (take along cat and chicken food, to be left in peace...). Toilets, table, well and shelter against the wind. |
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The Pozuelos lagoon is a huge lake (75 km² = 30 square miles !), very shallow, crowded with flamencos and many other water birds. The - very short - grass that grows on the edges is food to llamas and sheep herds (and the shepherds go around on bicycle !). The dirt roads leading to the lake (50 km = 30 miles from Abra Pampa) are not too bad, and not very busy : 5 or 6 cars a day... Cool ! (But it's best not to break down - we only had one flat tyre, but we saw an overturned car...). Breathing is short, at 12000 feet... and a small rest is welcome, particularly when the sun is warm, during the day... |
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Why did not I take along a big lens ? The birds are not used to visitors, and fly away very quickly... We can observe (among other birds) Andean geese (Chloephaga melanoptera) and 3 kinds of flamencos : Phoenicopterus chilensis, andinus and jamesis |
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Llamas and alpacas are raised for their wool and meat.
This is the place where we have seen the largest herds, during the whole trip..