Araucania Practical informations

(New trip to the South of Chile - December 3 to 31, 2012)
(see here our 2008 trip)

The maps

Don't look for precise maps of this area : they simply don't exist...
(the detail, right, as well as the map of the Región de los Lagos, below right, are copied from the map "Mapas Rutas y Caminos de Chile", by Serviteca DACSA, which is a fairly good general map)

The good map of Araucania, below left, may be obtained from the Tourist Information Center in Temuco.

These maps are sufficient, but it is still recommended to ask locally, in order to find out the present conditions of the dirt roads. Do not hesitate to ask several people, and not only in the Tourist Information Centers, who tend to be very cautious.

In each National Park, you will be given a Park map, where the trails are indicated. Those maps are not very accurate, but they are enough to find your way, as the trails are well marked.

The blue numbers are the places where we have slept (1 to 11). The roads we have followed are also marked in blue.

It is in order to avoid tourists that we have chosen to visit that area in December (3 to 31) : we know that many people go there on vacations during the summer (January and February). We indeed went through a few very touristic places : Pucon, of course, but also Puerto Varas. The tourist area of Villarrica is smaller, and the towns of Temuco, Curacautin and Angol have few tourist facilities.

CHANGING MONEY :
- We took along a maximum of cash (euros and dollars) to limit the charges in ATM (DAB) and shops (find out the rates charged by your bank : the costs may be sizable)
- In order to change cash, you have to go to Casas de Cambio, and not in banks
- Many ATM (DAB) in every town.
- In Santiago, we obtained a 20% rebate in the hotel, by paying in dollars (cash) : the Value Added Tax does not apply to foreigners - but we could not obtain the same rebate in other cities.

TRIP SANTIAGO-TEMUCO :
We rode Tur Bus (semi-cama). Approximately 9 h. The prices vary rather widely, depending on day and time of the day. It is impossible to make a reservation from abroad, but we had no problem purchasing the ticket one day in advance, for the outgoing trip. By purchasing immediately the return ticket, we could make a reservation for the first row of seats, on the second floor of the bus, which was very nice. The buses are very comfortable, the drivers are very careful, and the road is very straight : excellent travel conditions, and not very expensive. The bus stops shortly en route, and vendors offer sandwiches and drinks.

CAR RENTAL IN TEMUCO :
I had made a reservation through the Internet, with Budget (now the same company as Avis). 985 US$ for 21 days, declining the CDW insurance (which is covered by my credit card), but we had a hard time confirming these conditions locally. But we succeded : a savings of more than 300 US$ ! The car (KIA Rio4) was new, in perfect conditions : no problem, even on dirt roads. Incidentally, this car burns very little gasoline (gas costs about the same as in France). We drove about 1500 km.

RESTAURANTS :
In Chile, you have to eat fish and shellfish. Meat is not as common, but the products coming from the sea are excellent.
Contrary to argentinians, chileans eat early, in the evening - and restaurants close early. It might be difficult to find a place to eat on Sunday night. Prices are not cheap - almost like French prices.

SANTIAGO
- Hotel on arrival and departure : "Che Lagarto". Close to the center (adjoining streets are very busy during the day). Double bedroom with bath and sitting room, at a very reasonable cost (low season and no 20% VAT if you pay in $ cash). Fairly quiet (ask for a room facing the back). Excellent breakfast. Welcome is particularly friendly.
- Several restaurants only a few minutes from the hotel, on the other side of Cerro Santa Lucia : very quiet and nice. Do not miss the Mercado Municipal : excellent restaurants (noon only)

1- TEMUCO
- Hotel Nicolas (there is not much choice). A bit more expensive than Che Lagarto, but of a higher standard. Very nice, very clean, excellent welcome. Good restaurant in the hotel.
- We found gas canisters 2 streets away from the hotel, in the Dellinger sports shop.

2- TOLHUACA
- The dirt road going to the Park is in excellent condition, except for the last km, between the main road and the park entrance.
- Camping in the Park : super ! (and we were alone...). The parc wardens were particularly friendly, nice and helpful. The showers were cold, but plumbers were in the process of hooking hot showers : we will have to go back !
- Campgrounds are much busier on weekends (beside vacation periods).
- Trails within the park are perfectly marked and maintained.
- No shop : one has to bring all food and supplies.

3- CURACAUTIN
- The dirt road between Tolhuaca and Curacautin is excellent (access road to the Tolhuaca therms)
- Hotel Cordilleras del Sur : perfect. Restaurant in the hotel.

4- CONGUILLO
- The dirt road inside the park is a bit rough.
- The campground deserves several stars (a bit expensive, but very well worth it). Wide camping areas, opening towards the lake, hot showers... (and even a shelter in case of rain...)
- Very small shop
- Very few people : a few fishermen - very quiet - and groups of children who came for the day.

5- VILLARRICA
- The dirt road within the park is a bit rough.
- The city is not too tourist oriented. A few banks and shops. A few restaurants.
- Hotel Don Juan - very good
I have heard there is a nice volcano nearby ? We stayed for two days, and never saw it...

6- HUERQUEHUE
- Dirt road in bad conditions, after the park entrance.
- Fantastic refugio Tinquilco. Patricio, the warden, is quite a figure : he used to direct/produce documentary films for the Chilean TV, and is now fully occupied by cooking and protecting the Park.

7- PETROHUE
- Excellent road (many tourists go through Petrohue on their way to Argentina, via Lake Todos los Santos).
- Campground on the lake shore, very nice, with hot showers... Watch out : camping spaces are quite close together, and this may create problems in case of affluence (as usual, we were alone...).

8- PUERTO VARAS
- Hospedaje Casa Azul : very nice, but german welcome (a bit cool...)
- Many shops, restaurants, etc...

9- ANGOL
- Fantastic Hotel Club Social ! A great place to spend Christmas Eve ! Very warm welcome.
- Restaurant in the hotel - but closed on Xmas Eve, as all the restaurants in Algol... We had to make do with a pizza... (Excellent Pizzeria Sparlatto - the owner is very nice)
- City ignored by tourists (no mention of it in the Routard) but Cecilia, in the Oficina de Turismo on the main plazza, gave us many useful informations.

10- NAHUELBUTA
- The dirt road from Angol is excellent until the Park entrance, but quite rough within the Park.
- There is a campground within the Park, but we choose to stay at the Campo Indio (approx 12 km before the Park entrance), where we could stay in the only "cabana" for a friendly price (low season). The owners are a Swiss couple.
- In high season, it should be possible to get a meal.