CRITIQUES DE LIVRES
Les grands Textes de l’Alpinisme
(The most important books on Mountaineering, according to Neate - 1978)
(d’après W.R. Neate – Mountaineering and its Literature – Cicerone Press 1978)
Fifty Books in Mountaineering
Many of the books listed in the author index are authoritative and readable, and over 400 have been marked (*) as suggested reading. Even this culling leaves an unwieldy collection from which to assimilate the real substance of mountaineering and its literature. In choosing the following fifty books, regard has been had to:
(i) coverage of the whole field
(il) historical importance
(iii) literary quality
(iv) material quality
(v) exceptional achievements.
The titles are arranged in alphabetical order.
* Abraham, A. P. — Rock-climbing in Skye - London - Longmans 1908
*Abraham, G. D. — Rock-climbing in North Wales - Keswick - Abraham 1906
* Alpine Club — Peaks, passes and glaciers [Series I &Il] - London - Longmans 1859/1862
* Barker, R. — The last blue mountain - London - Chatto & Windus 1959
* Benuzzi, F. — No picnic on Mount Kenya - London - Kimber 1952 (Kenya ou la Fugue Africaine - Arthaud 1950)
* Bonatti, W. — On the heights - London - Hart-Davis 1964 (A mes Montagnes - Arthaud 1962)
* Brown, J. — The hard years: an autobiography - London - Gollancz 1967
* Brown, T. G. — Brenva - London - Dent 1944 (Brenva - Victor Attinger 1955)
* Buhl, H. — Nanga Parbat pilgrimage - London Hodder 1956 (Buhl du Nanga Parbat - Arthaud 1959)
* Clark, R. W. — The splendid hills: the life and photographs of Vittorio Sella 1859-1943 - London - Phoenix 1948
* Coleman, A. P. — The Canadian Rockies: new and old trails - Toronto - Frowde 1911
* Collie, J. N. — Climbing on the Himalaya and other mountain ranges - Edinburgh - Douglas 1902
* Conway, W. M. — The Alps from end to end - London - Constable 1895
* Coxhead, E. — One green bottle (Roman)- London - Collins 1951
* Davidson, A. — The coldest climb: the winter ascent of Mt. McKinley - London - Bodley Head 1970
* Ferlet, R. — Aconcagua: South Face - London - Constable 1956 (Victoire sur l'Aconcagua - Flammarion 1955)
* Filippi, F. de — Ruwenzori: an account of the expedition of H.R.H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi - London - Constable 1908 (Le Ruwenzori et les hautes Cimes de l'Afrique Centrale - Plon 1909)
* Fitzgerald, E. A. — Climbs in the New Zealand Alps: being an account of travel and discovery - London - Fisher Unwin 1896
* Forbes, J. D. — Travels through the Alps of Savoy and other parts of the Pennine chain with observations on the phenomena of glaciers - Edinburgh - A. & C. Black 1843
* Freshfield, D. W. — The exploration of the Caucasus - London - Arnold 1896
* Gribble, F. — The early mountaineers - London - Fisher Unwin 1899
* Harrer, H. — The White Spider: The History of the Eiger's North Face - London - Hart-Davis 1959 (La face Nord de l'Eiger - Denoël 1964)
* Herzog, M. — Annapuma: conquest of the first 8000-metre peak (26,493 feet) - London - Cape 1952 (Annapurna, Premier 8000 - Arthaud 1951)
* Hornbein, T. F. — Everest: the west ridge - Sierra Club 1965
* Irving, R. L. G. — The mountain way: an anthology in prose and verse - London - Dent 1938
* Jones, C. — Climbing in North America - Berkeley - University Press 1976
* Jones, O. G. — Rock-climbing in the English Lake District - London- Longmans 1897
* King, C. — Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada - Boston 1872
* Klucker, C. — Adventures of an Alpine guide - London - Murray 1932
* Kugy, J. — Alpine pilgrimage - London - Murray 1934 (Révélation de la Montagne - Victor Attinger 1944)
* Longstaff, T. G. — This my voyage - London - Murray 1950 (Mon Odyssée Montagnarde - Arthaud 1955)
* Lunn, A. H. M. — A century of mountaineering 1857-1957 - London - Allen & Unwin 1957
* Maraini, F. — Where four worlds meet: Hindu Kush 1959 - London - Hamish Hamilton 1964
* Mason, K. — Abode of snow: A History of of Himalayan Exploration and Mountaineering - London- Hart-Davis 1955
* Moore, A. W. — The Alps in 1864: a private journal - Edinburgh - David Douglas 1902
* Muir, J. — My first summer in the Sierra - Boston - Houghton Mifflin 1911
* Mummery, A. F. — My climbs in the Alps and Caucasus - London - Fisher Unwin 1895 (Mes Escalades dans les Alpes et le Caucase - Didier & Richard 1936)
* Murray,W. H. — Mountaineering in Scotland. - London - Dent 1947
* Noyce, C. W. F. — South Col: one man’s adventure on the ascent of Everest, 1953 - London - Heinemann 1954 (Everest, Notre Conquête ? - Arthaud 1958)
* Pilley, D. — Climbing days - London - Bell 1935
* Scott, D. K. — Big wall climbing - London - Kaye & Ward 1974
* Shipton, E. E. — Nanda Devi - London - Hodder 1936
* Slingsby, W. C. — Norway: the northern playground. Sketches of climbing and mountain exploration in Norway between 1872 and 1903 - Edinburgh - Douglas 1904
* Smythe, F. S. — The spirit of the hills - London - Hodder 1935
* Stephen, L. — The playground of Europe - London - Longmans 1871 (Le Terrain de Jeu de l'Europe - Victor Attinger 1935)
* Thorington, J. M. — The glittering mountains of Canada: a record of exploration and pioneer ascents in the Canadian Rockies 1914-1924 - Philadelphia - Lea 1925
* Whymper, E. — Scrambles amongst the Alps in the years 1860-69 - London - Murray 1871 (Escalades dans les Alpes de 1860 à 1869 - Hachette 1873 et extraits dans Escalades - Victor Attinger 1944)
* Whymper, E. — Travels amongst the great Andes of the Equator - London - Murray 1891 (Extraits dans Escalades - Victor Attinger 1944)
* Young, G. W. — Mountain craft - London - Methuen 1920
* Young, G. W. — Collected poems - London - Methuen 1936
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